The short answer

Damp on a chimney breast comes from rain through the stack, flaunching or flashing, from a capped flue with no vent, from salts left by old soot, or from condensation on a cold wall. Cap the pot properly, vent the flue, inspect the roof junction and do not seal the wall with hard cement.

Rung 1: Work out which kind it is

Look at the pattern and the timing.

  • Brown stains and powdery salts: moisture carrying soluble salts, often from old soot and flue deposits.
  • Damp worse after heavy rain: water getting in at the pot, flaunching, flashing or stack brickwork.
  • Damp in the cold months only, with mould on paint: condensation on a cold wall.
  • Wet patch low down at the base: check for ground-level or plumbing causes, not just the flue.

Rung 2: Look at the stack from outside

From the ground or, safely, from a ladder or with binoculars, check for cracked pot, loose flaunching (the mortar around the pot), failed lead flashing where the stack meets the roof, and missing or sagging pointing. A chimney pot with no cap lets rain run down the flue; a cap that seals it completely leaves the flue unventilated. The usual remedy is a vented cap.

Rung 3: Ventilate or reopen the flue

If a fireplace has been boarded up, the flue can hold damp air and sweat on cold brickwork. Fit a ventilator in the fireplace opening, or have the flue properly swept and vented. A chimney that is no longer used still needs air, or the damp will show on the breast inside.

Rung 4: Repair, then treat the wall

Repoint and re-flaunch the stack with a mortar that suits old brick, usually lime-based on older buildings. Re-lay lead flashings. Once the water is stopped, let the wall dry before replastering. Do not seal the inside with waterproof paint, because it traps moisture.

If condensation was the cause, a loft-mounted dehumidifier is one option for owner-occupied homes with a loft; it does not fix rain entry or a failed stack.

Mistakes that make chimney damp worse

  • Sealing the pot completely with a solid cap and leaving the flue with no ventilation.
  • Filling cracks in the stack with hard cement, which can trap water in old brick.
  • Replastering over salt-stained plaster before the wall has dried.
  • Painting the chimney breast with waterproof or masonry paint inside the house.
  • Ignoring the roof junction and treating only the inside face.

In Chatham and the Medway Towns

Medway's older terraces were built in brick under clay tile or slate, and Medway Council's conservation area appraisals note alterations such as render and replaced roof coverings that can change how stacks shed water. Rochester's historic centre has many chimneys on timber-framed and brick buildings; see Rochester, and Brompton for terraces where stacks are shared along the row.

Questions we are asked

A sweep can clear soot and debris and check the flue is open, which helps ventilation. Ask them to check the cap and condition.

Not until the cause is fixed and the wall has dried. Salts can reappear through new plaster.

A roofer or builder with chimney experience, ideally one who knows lime mortar if the house is older.

Related guides

Local help

Sources: Medway Council: Historic Rochester Conservation Area Appraisal (2010); Medway Council: Brompton Lines Conservation Area Appraisal; GOV.UK: Understanding and addressing the health risks of damp and mould in the home; Property Care Association: Condensation in homes.

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